Hey guys, Sitting here with a expressionless alternator (I assume). Bombardment only volition not hold a accuse and the battery light stays on the nuance. Has anyone replaced just the brushes on the stock alternator or but go ahead and replace it altogether? Advice?
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04-23-2012, 09:47 PM
#2
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You will desire to verify information technology really is the alternator by checking the voltage output AND current output in amps.
Pep Boys will do this for free or ~ $x.
I am seriously prepping to practise the "big iii upgrade" and supplant the alternator because every year my battery dies.
I was able to score an alternator from a wreck yard (via EBAY) that had only 88k miles on it for $65 due west/ free shipping.
A new 1 will cost yous $240 - $300 depending on where you purchase it.
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Last edited past BrianSD_42; 04-23-2012 at 09:50 PM.
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04-23-2012, 10:17 PM
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Elton H
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practice the gm alternator swap
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04-23-2012, 11:33 PM
#four
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Elton H
practise the gm alternator swap
I would like to if I can choice up the parts locally tomorrow. Didn't I read about a custom wire harness y'all demand to club?
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04-23-2012, eleven:42 PM
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Eh, the CS144 bandy is a bit overrated unless you Need the extra power. Y'all tin can't use an oversize oil filter with it (non that big of a bargain), it's harder to get the oil filter out in full general, and the wiring harness has to be switched to the new GM plug.
If I was doing it once again (not needing the bigger alt specifically) I would simply do what rickashay did...
Quote:
Originally Posted by rickashay
Afterward some power issues on the Whipsaw trail, it was time to supervene upon the alternator. While I was at it, I did the battery. It didnt hurt that I got my battery for dealer cost!
Re-manufactured Toyota alternator. After thinking about doing the Chevy CS-144 Alternator, I decided to stay Toyota seeing every bit how the original lasted thirteen years. I got my friend at the Toyota parts desk-bound to expect for something that puts out more than the standard 98 4Runner alternator's 60A at idle. The 99 4runners apparently came with one that puts out 80A at idle, and then I ordered one of those.
I would like to if I tin can selection upward the parts locally tomorrow. Didn't I read about a custom wire harness you need to order?
If you practise decide to do the CS-144, when you buy the alternator from the parts store, just ask them for the GM style plug. They usually have them in stock. It'south but the plug with a short pigtail on it. Yous'll accept to cutting your Toyota plug off and wire the GM plug onto the 4Runner wiring.
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04-24-2012, 12:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksilvr
Eh, the CS144 swap is a bit overrated unless you NEED the extra power. You can't use an oversize oil filter with it (non that big of a deal), it's harder to become the oil filter out in general, and the wiring harness has to be switched to the new GM plug.
If I was doing information technology once again (non needing the bigger alt specifically) I would simply practice what rickashay did...
I think I will keep it simple and take hold of a remanufactured 80A alternator from Advance. $125 w/ $xxx off $100, or $50 off $150.
I wish this thing quit on me final week when I had time to work on it. Hopefully the reman replacement will drop correct in with no issues.
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04-24-2012, 12:38 AM
#viii
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Probably a skillful choice. Reman alternators are normally a pretty solid bet...not a super complicated part to remanufacture.
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04-24-2012, 03:29 PM
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Just snagged the 80A "Wolrdwide" alternator from Advance with a $fifty off $150 coupon to bring the price downwards to ~$84 plus tax. Can't complain. I'll let you know how she drops in. Only a $25 cadre, and then I may take information technology autonomously and come across what the brushes look similar. Might exist able to flip the repaired alternator for a few bucks if that is all it needs. Has anyone successfully repaired an alternator doing only the brushes?
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04-25-2012, 07:03 PM
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In case anyone is interested, the remanufactured alternator at Advance Car, the "Worldwide" is a remanufactured Denso and information technology looks practically make new. As expected the alternator dropped right in with no bug whatever. Fortunately for me I had no corrosion bug to deal with. Since I have an automatic belt tensioner for the supercharger, this was every bit dotterel of an installation as you could imagine. I left the adjuster as information technology was and that was that. I can certainly recommend the generic replacement from Accelerate. Especially for ~$85.
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04-25-2012, 11:38 PM
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doin the cs144 swap. i program on running an electric fan and a winch later on. so it makes sense really.
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10-07-2016, 10:56 AM
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Bringing back an quondam thread.
My opinion is y'all should try to fix your OEM alternator considering most likely any aftermarket or remanufactured one isn't going to piece of work every bit well or terminal as long.
Many times, an alternator fails to deliver sufficient voltage due to worn brushes.
@infamousRNR
and I made a video showing how to remove the alternator, replace the brushes and reinstall the alternator. It'southward a pretty straightforward repair merely getting the alternator back into the bracket and the bolt holes lined up so y'all can slide the pivot bolt back in is a petty bit of a pain in the arse. We establish a technique that eventually worked to get the bolt holes lined upward and we share this technique in the video and the tools that helped.
Hither'due south the video. Enjoy the show!
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10-07-2016, 11:22 AM
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Thanks for the video, I'll picket the whole thing after work. Just a tip, it sounds similar yous were using a Gopro in the housing which is why the sound has that fizz. You can get backs that accept slots to allow audio in, or only cut slots in a solid back to become the same thing. If you are worried about stuff getting in there you lot tin put a layer of duct tape over the slots.
Last edited by Mark_BC; 10-07-2016 at xi:24 AM.
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x-07-2016, 11:37 AM
#fourteen
mtbtim
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Quote:
Originally Posted past Mark_BC
Thanks for the video, I'll sentry the whole matter after work. Just a tip, it sounds like you were using a Gopro in the housing which is why the sound has that buzz. Yous tin get backs that have slots to let sound in, or only cut slots in a solid dorsum to go the same thing. If you lot are worried nearly stuff getting in there you can put a layer of duct tape over the slots.
I don't know what fizz you're talking about. The GoPro housing we're using is the one with the slots cut out in the back. I'm just using my computer speakers so maybe the speakers you lot're using are more sensitive and picking up sound feedback I'm not able to hear.
Anyway, hope you detect the video helpful.
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10-07-2016, 07:54 PM
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While you're in at that place, replace the bearings.
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